Sailing Across the Pacific Ocean 2013 (Part 22) - Vanua Levu, Fiji
Today was the big Lovo at Naidi Village here on Vanuatu Levu (not to be confused with the touristy 'Nadi' on Viti Levu). It was an amazing experience and is something not to be missed on a trip to Fiji!
On arrival in their village, we were welcomed by Bossa, who acted as our spokesman (you can't speak to the chief directly until you are accepted into the village) and explained how things worked so we didn't make fools of ourselves (which Im sure we did anyway). There were loads of kids playing rugby
They don't even have locks on their doors (for the houses that have doors).
and volleyball
It was sad to see two kids sharing the only pair of Rugby cleats (and shoes) that the village had. And I mean they were each wearing one shoe of the pair, not passing the pair back and forth.
It's nice to see all the kids playing together safely without constant supervision. You wouldn't find that so much back home.
The women were hard at work grinding and squeezing coconuts to make coconut milk for dinner.
They are a fairly religious society and accommodate multiple faiths. The was a Catholic Church on one end of the village and a Methodist church at the other end.
It was also nice to see that their dogs were treated nicely here.
Bossa pointed out a great viewpoint on the opposite end of the village, down a bit of a slope.
There was a really cute dog relaxing in front of one of the huts.
They use this cute dog as a distraction, then you get jumped by some kid hiding in the house behind you.
I wrestled off as he was biting my arm and finally was able to subdue his attacks.
The view was gorgeous. We were told they close the beach off for three months when one of the villagers passes away as their spirit resides there after death before moving on.
We walked over to the church and got in the way of the kids playing rugby.
Bumblebee tuna. Kids with spitball shooters.
Here is the Lovo, where the food was all cooked underground.
With all that fooling around out of the way, it was time to initiate the Savusavu ceremony. They showed us our place on the mat around the village chief (who was a absolutely massive man). Everyone looked like children sitting next to him.
They then do a prayer followed by our spokesman telling the chief our story and that we'd like to be welcomed into the village in Fijian.
Who knows what he actually said to the chief, but that is what we were told.
The spokesperson offers the chief your gift of Yagona (Kava) and if he accepts it, you are then considered part of the village as extended family and can come back whenever you want (village membership expires after a year). When he accepts, you are finally able to speak and touch the chief, so you go up, shake his hand, and tell him your name and where you are from.
The chief responds by spitting on you if he likes you (just kidding).
We then broke out the giant bowl of Yagona and got the party started! You clap once to show you would like some when your time comes (no one drinks before the chief), and then let them know if you want "low tide" or "high tide" (half a bowl or a full bowl). James and I were rocking high tides all night, I think they were impressed by our Yagona drinking abilities.
After a few bowls of Yagona:
Yagona has a mild narcotic effect that relaxes you and numbs your mouth, so after a dozen or so bowls, James and I were feeling pretty light-headed.
They also had a few guys playing guitars and ukuleles while we drank which really complimented the chill atmosphere set by the Yagona.
After a few rounds, it was time for dinner. They had a big selection of different dishes for everyone to feast on.
After dinner it was back to drinking Yagona, where James and I finished off another 10 or so bowls.
It's was an amazing night, we got to experience some ancient Fijian tradition and meet some great people. We are planning to go back in a month or so after sailing around Fiji and having some more Yagona with the friendly people of Naida.
Bumblebee tuna!
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