Saturday, July 6, 2013

Tonga: Day 5 - Feast!

Friday, July 5, 2013

Nothing is open in the morning, so we dinghied to town and ran some errands. We stopped at Mangoes on the way back for some Fish Curry.

In the evening, we took our dinghy over to a beach village across the lagoon for a huge feast they were having there. It cost 50 panga per person (about $30) and included a free shuttle, but we decided to take the dinghy so we could leave whenever we wanted.

The beach was right on the tip of the south side of the mouth of the bay and had great views of the surrounding islands and sun set.
As you can see, we were one of the first people there. 

They had us sign our name on a guest list when we arrived.

There was a band of four guys rocking out when we arrived. They were playing a banjo, ukelele, and two guitars. There were a few older women dancing to the music.

It wasn't long before the main shuttle arrived and the rest of the party arrived. There were only another five or six couples/families that came, so it didn't lose its intimacy.

It was then prayer time, led by the village priest.

Followed by the kava ceremony, where they shouted your name and you responded by clapping your hands together to say you wanted kava. They would then bring it to you in a little coconut cup after the village virgin girl freshly ground the root right there.
Their kava was much lighter than what we had made the other night. I think we made it with like 10 times concentration. They also drank it cold, not hot.

Here is what kava root looks like before being ground.

They then took us around the village and demonstrated their way of life while dinner was being cooked. They first showed us how the ladies make tapa cloth for clothing, bed sheets, and artwork.
They take the inner bark from a mulberry tree, dry it, and then slam it with a wooden mallet until it is as flat as can be and ends up being about ten times wider than when they started.

They also showed us the importance of the coconut tree in their culture. They use every single part of it for something. Here they are showing us how they take the outer layer off the coconut by slamming it against a sharpened stick and then peeling it away.

The priest then demonstrated how to open the inner shell with one quick swing of his machete.

Then they sent one of the boys up the tree to demonstrate how they climb them and remove a coconut.

They also had some booths set up by the beach where you could buy some of their handmade goods.

I chose to buy some fresh coconut water to drink.

Dinner was served buffet-style and I got to try many different local dishes.
(Poisson cru, various fish dishes, Octopus, various chicken dishes, beef, some grass-like stuff, salads, watermelon, papaya, and some coconut). They kept bringing more food out and re-filling your plate faster than you could eat it. I was painfully full after finishing my plate, and then they brought out dessert.
I took a bit to try it. It was fried breadfruit with some sort of caramel sauce.

After dinner the kids in the village (princes and princesses supposedly) showed us some of their dances.

Things got a little strange when people started shoving money in their clothes like they were strippers...

We got to see about ten dances in total and ended with the boys showing their war dance.

We then sang a 'Goodbye, until next time' song and said our end of the night prayer. They invited everyone to hang around and dance with them, but we chose to head back to the boat.

The ride back was pretty rough in the dinghy. It was really dark and no one had their anchor lights on in the anchorage. It was also very windy/wavy, so I was soaking wet when we got back.

Tonga: Day 4 - The King's Birthday!

Thursday, July 4, 2013

Today is the birthday of the King of Tonga and also America's birthday (Independence Day).

The King lives on a different island from where we are and other than being a holiday, there were no festivities on our island. Our island, Vava'u, holds a lot of the younger generation who do not like the monarchy and are trying to move the country to more of a democracy. There was some rioting a few years ago here in Neiafu.

They were, however, celebrating America's birthday at the Aquarium Cafe right onshore from our boat, so we went there for a good ol' American BBQ and beer.

Tonga: Day 3 - Malo e lelei!

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

We took a stroll to the Utukalongalu Market to restock our fruits and vegetables

It looks like a shady area, but it is actually quite the opposite. Everyone is very friendly here.

Browsing through the various produce for sale, we came across the legendary Kava root. We found it already ground up into a powder for us and the lady vaguely explained ho to make it.
.
Kava is an alcohol substitute that is supposed to have a relaxing mild narcotic effect when made into a drink and consumed.

That evening, using the vague instructions we got from the lady at the market, we tried making it. 

We first put the kava into a strong napkin,

then rolled it up tight,

then soaked it in water,

and tried twisting/pressing the kava juice out.

The napkin was too weak and fell apart, so we transferred the kava to a piece of an old t-shirt (clean) that we cut off.

The shirt held together when twisting much better.

But the Kava still didn't really turn out. It was far too weak and just tasted like water.

So then we googled how to do it and took the first method we found online, which involved mixing it in a big pot, like hot chocolate,

and then straining it through an old t-shirt into a glass (why always an old t-shirt?)

This was a bit better, but still a fail in our opinion. We finally tried boiling it with some coconut milk (as we read the active substances in Kava are not readily water soluble and require some sort of fat - ie. coconut milk).

This turned out much better and we ended up with a hot, bitter beverage as thick as gravy. It was incredibly disgusting. It was so bitter it would make you gag at every sip. The only effect we felt from it was that it made your mouth and throat numb like a throat lozenge. I had three cups and called it quits because I couldn't choke down any more.

Tonga: Day 2 - Good day for a swim!

Tuesday, June 2, 2013

We went to shore again today to do some laundry and internet at the Tropicana Cafe. I saw this sign post on postcards in some of the shops.

Do NOT go swimming off your boat here in Tonga. I took this picture right off the stern of our boat.
These jellyfish ARE toxic.

Here I was able to get a close up. I just dunked my hand in as quick as possible and recorded a quick video before touching it.

Needless to say, I will not be doing any work on the bottom of the boat here.

Tonga: Day 1 - Arrival

Monday, July 1, 2013

Sailing Across the Pacific Ocean 2013 (Part 20) - Exploring Tonga


The date jump since my last post is not a mistake. Although Tonga lies to the east of the international date line (ie. we haven't crossed the line yet), they have chosen to be on the same clock as New Zealand for business purposes. Therefore, we had to jump our clocks ahead a day before arriving. Happy Canada Day!

Tonga is a big cluster of 170 islands. Many are uninhabited and take the shape of big 'hockey pucks' sticking out of the water.

It was a cloudy morning on arrival.

After navigating through the cluster of islands we came to the customs dock in Neiafu in the Vava'u Island Group. It was a pretty sketchy wharf, but we managed it again.

After clearing in, Jan and I went for a walk around to see if we could locate ourselves a mooring.

Here is Neiafu's main church.

After asking for directions a few times, we finally found "Mango's", which is a bar that had some moorings available.

We also stopped by a little market that had whale bones for sale.
Are you all out of whale bones?

The day ended with a visit from lufi who rowed up to our boat and offered us bread and lobster and laundry services.